I realized while doing my research that there may be more than a few people who would be interested in building their own computer, but may not have or do not think they have the expertise to do so. Looking up the information online can be quite a challenge for someone who has no experience, as there are many pages that go into way too much detail for the beginner.
Building a Computer Step by Step
In this post I break down the computer into the basic components you would need to buy, describe what you are looking for, and point you in the right places to look. As computer technology changes constantly, I am not going to recommend any specific brands or chips or speeds or memory sizes as this would be useless in less than a year. While the speeds of processors and memory sizes are growing ever faster, the basic components have not changed significantly in the past few decades, and will not likely be changing anytime soon.Initial Disclaimer
This write-up is for help in building your own desktop PC. Laptops, while they generally have the same constituent parts, are usually custom-made to fit into the small form factor, and cannot be easily made at home. If you are looking for a laptop, I highly recommend buying one. There are sites that provide a step-by-step on how to build one, but these start out with a stripped down laptop to which you just add a few parts.While I try to go into as much detail as I can, the goal here is to provide information that will outlast the technology of the present. I may mention specifics as examples, but overall I am trying to get the beginner familiar with what type of concepts and parts to look for if they are trying to build their own computer. You will still have to do some research on your own as to the specific parts you wish to purchase.
There are some more advanced computer building concepts that I feel will only cause confusion for most beginners, so I will not discuss them in detail here. If you are a particularly eager learner, however, I encourage you to read up on some of the topics I have listed below after getting a handle on what it takes to build a computer.
 |
| My motherboard mounted into the case. Note that the motherboard is a smaller but compatible size compared to the case. |
Compatibility
This is extremely important, but the names and standards change constantly, so telling you to get a specific type of hard drive or processor or graphics card is pointless. What I will say is be very cognizant of compatibility for every part. I will try and cover the primary compatibility concerns, but this is not an exhaustive list. Be sure to do your research to ensure compatibility before buying components.
Form Factor
I actually mention this later a few times because this is the primary concern when buying a case. The form factor will determine the ultimate size of your machine, and for many people this is their primary need. The two components that need to be matched up when it comes to form factor are the case and the motherboard. Read the portions on these two components for more on form factor. |
| The back of my processor. The pin configuration varies from chip to chip, so make sure you buy a compatible processor. |
Processor Slot/Socket
Most processors look fairly similar, but with each new generation of processors comes a new number and/or configuration of connector pins. Be sure if you get a Socket G3 processor, you get a Socket G3 motherboard. If you don't, there will be no way to connect your processor to your motherboard, and trying to force the connection will definitely break the processor and possibly the motherboard. There have been a couple of different socket types in the past that are compatible, such as Socket AM2 processors will work in Socket AM2+ motherboards, but this is rare and the name usually makes the compatibility obvious. If ever run into a question about compatibility, always consult the provided documentation.Memory (RAM)
Random access memory (RAM) is a crucial component to all computers, and ensuring memory compatibility is just as important as ensuring processor compatibility. While memory types do not change as frequently, they do change every couple years as memory sticks gain more storage and run faster. Be sure the memory type matches what the motherboard supports, (i.e. DDR2, DDR3, etc) AND the number of pins match. (178, 240...) If there is ever a question whether the memory you want is compatible with your motherboard, consult your motherboard's documentation. It will specify what type and size memory to get.
 |
| One of my memory sticks. Many brands like this one come with a heat spreader attached to help dissipate heat. |
The last compatibility issue with memory is capacity. With every memory type, there is a range of storage capacities that are sold, anywhere from 512 Megabytes (MB) to 1, 2, 4, and 8 Gigabytes (GB), and I am sure in the future 16, 32, 64, and 128 GB. Just about every motherboard comes with at lest two slots for RAM, usually 3 or more. However, depending on the motherboard, it may only support certain capacity chips even though the chips are of the right size and type. Consult your motherboard documentation on what capacity chips are supported.
Expansion Slots/Buses
 |
| My expansion slots. From top to bottom: 1 PCIe x1, 1 PCIe x16, 2 PCI slots. |
Looking at the motherboard head-on, you will see one or more horizontal slots at the bottom left of the board. These are the expansion slots. If you put the motherboard inside the case, you will see these slots line up with the expansion ports on the case. If you need some extra USB ports, or want a graphics or sound card, these are where the cards go.
Every couple years, manufacturers will add on newer, faster expansion bus types, and slowly retire the older, obsolete ones. When I first started building computers, there was the quite old ISA slot, the fairly new PCI slot, and the quite new AGP slot which was designed specifically for graphics cards. All these with the exception of the PCI slot, which is still around on some motherboards, have been replaced with the faster PCIe bus. The PCIe bus actually has its own iterations, x1, x4, x8, and x16, the numbers designating the number of 'lanes' available for data transmission.
Be sure when you buy an expansion card, the slot/bus type matches what is available on the motherboard. You can't buy them anymore, but if you had an AGP graphics card, it will NOT work in a PCIe slot. It shouldn't even fit. If you get a PCIe x16 graphics card, however, which is fairly common today, it will fit in a PCIe x8 or x4 slot, but it won't work.
On the plus side, a PCIe x1, x4, or x8 card will work in a PCIe x16 slot. As long as the slot has more 'lanes' than the card, they are compatible. Of course the expansion bus types are bound to change again and again as technology progresses, so just be aware that any expansion card you buy needs to be compatible with the available expansion slots on the motherboard.
Every couple years, manufacturers will add on newer, faster expansion bus types, and slowly retire the older, obsolete ones. When I first started building computers, there was the quite old ISA slot, the fairly new PCI slot, and the quite new AGP slot which was designed specifically for graphics cards. All these with the exception of the PCI slot, which is still around on some motherboards, have been replaced with the faster PCIe bus. The PCIe bus actually has its own iterations, x1, x4, x8, and x16, the numbers designating the number of 'lanes' available for data transmission.
Be sure when you buy an expansion card, the slot/bus type matches what is available on the motherboard. You can't buy them anymore, but if you had an AGP graphics card, it will NOT work in a PCIe slot. It shouldn't even fit. If you get a PCIe x16 graphics card, however, which is fairly common today, it will fit in a PCIe x8 or x4 slot, but it won't work.
On the plus side, a PCIe x1, x4, or x8 card will work in a PCIe x16 slot. As long as the slot has more 'lanes' than the card, they are compatible. Of course the expansion bus types are bound to change again and again as technology progresses, so just be aware that any expansion card you buy needs to be compatible with the available expansion slots on the motherboard.
Internal Drives
Similar to expansion slots/buses, internal drive ports change types every so often. Luckily this only happens every five to ten years, and even then there are usually adapters sold to make old drives compatible with new ones. As always, consult your motherboard documentation if you have questions about where the ports are, what type they are, or whether your drive is supported.
Component Size
Even if you do all your research to make sure your parts will be compatible, there is the chance that a part may not fit. This could be a graphics card being too big for the case or a processor heatsink being too wide and interfering with a memory slot. It happens. Just be sure to always read instructions, and be patient. Just be sure to save your receipt, so if you do end up with a part that is too big and cannot be made to fit, you can return it.
Determine Your Needs
This is the best first step in building your own computer because it will determine what type of components you need to get. A computer used for word processing generally doesn't need much in the way of graphics, but a computer designed for gaming does. A computer designed for storing and backing up your pictures and videos may need much more hard drive space than one that doesn't.
Also determine where you are going to use this computer. If it is to be hooked up to your home entertainment system, you may want to get a smaller case in order for it to fit nicely with the rest of your devices. Even if this is only going to be used at a desk, consider the dimensional restrictions. Underneath the desk may have depth considerations, and on top may require a smaller footprint overall.
Consider Future Upgrades
It is almost always easier and more cost efficient to upgrade your current computer than to buy a new one. When choosing parts, especially the motherboard and case, be cognizant of your ability to upgrade it in the future.
You may not need more than 8 GB of RAM now, but five years down the line you may need 16 GB. If you buy two 4 GB memory chips now, and your motherboard has 4 slots, you can easily buy two more chips later. If you get a cheaper motherboard with only two slots, you will either have to replace your 4 GB chips with two 8 GB chips, or you may be stuck with what you have.
Also, if you opt for one of the smaller form factor cases, you will be limited on component space. This may not pose an issue now, but if you decide to buy another component down the line such as a graphics card, there may not be room for it.
Choose Your Parts
I am going to work my way through the major components of a desktop computer, starting with what I think is the most important and work down to the least important. I find this to be the best way for me to build a computer, though feel free to start and end with whichever component is best for you.
Case
This may not have been much of a consideration when you were thinking of this project, but the case will ultimately determine the sizes of the components you can get. For computers that you may want to add onto change at a later date, or space is not a consideration, I would recommend a larger case in a standard form factor.
Currently, there are two major form factors, ATX and BTX, but there are also a slew of other sizes, like microATX and picoBTX which are just smaller versions of the standard form factor. The standard form factors will generally support components designed for the smaller sizes, but not vice versa. If you decide years later you want to rebuild your computer, many times you can reuse the same case and save a few bucks if the new components are still compatible. If you get a smaller case and components, you may be forced to buy a new case if you upgrade in the future.
If space or looks are a consideration, you may want to get a smaller case. Be warned, however. If you are looking to get a computer with a serious graphics card or other large component, there may not be room in a smaller case to accommodate it. This is something to keep in mind and you may have to work through this list a few times as you choose your parts. Also, depending on how many expansion cards (we will mention these later) you want or need, you may not have enough space available in a smaller case to accommodate them all.
Power Supply
 |
| My power supply located at the top of the case. |
It is important to note two things when choosing a power supply. First, if you do sum up the power drain of all your components, be sure to pick a power supply that can support that plus a bit of a cushion. You do not want to be pushing the limits of your power supply, otherwise you may get computer crashes as parts fail due to lack of power.
Second, know that a power supplies maximum output diminishes over time. Just like many batteries that cannot hold a full charge as they get older, a power supply will not be able to output the same peak wattage years down the line. You do not want to get stuck with a power supply that may not function properly down the line.
Case in point: when I was buying my second computer, I bought a CompUSA power supply that should have provided enough power. Even so, my new computer would keep crashing after about thirty seconds on. After trying to troubleshoot every single component for the problem, I finally tried replacing the power supply and voilà! The power supply was not providing enough power and somewhere along the line a component was not performing properly, causing a fatal error.This is also a lesson in not buying cheap crap. Luckily for everyone, CompUSA is out of business now.
Motherboard
 |
| My motherboard with the processor still installed. (no heatsink) |
When talking about form factors in cases earlier, I mentioned there are different types. (future types may have different names, but there will likely always be form factors) Whichever case form factor you get, be sure the motherboard form factor matches. Smaller motherboard form factors will USUALLY fit in the standard size form factor of the same type. (i.e. a microATX motherboard will likely be compatible in an ATX case) This should be true of any form factors of the same name, but proceed with some caution if going this route.
The motherboard you choose will ultimately determine the processor and memory you can buy. If you end up choosing a processor that is not compatible with the motherboard you picked, simply go back and pick another motherboard. This goes for memory too. If you want more memory than your motherboard supports, there is probably an almost identical board with a couple more slots. There is usually a motherboard for every possible combination of processor type, memory capacity, and number of expansion slots.
The primary difference in the smaller form factors versus the standard sizes is number of expansion slots. These give you the ability to add a graphics card (or two in some gaming systems), a sound card, network or wireless card, extra USB ports, etc... Smaller form factor motherboards may only have one or two expansion slots, where some of the larger standard form factor motherboards may have seven. Generally you won't need more than one or two anyway, but it depends on your needs.
As I said, the motherboard is the hub for all your computer components. This includes your external components and connections too, like mice, keyboards, monitors, and external hard drives. All motherboards will come with at least the basics like USB ports, and most will also include connections for speakers, monitors, and network cables. What these connections mean is the motherboard has a build-in graphics card, sound card, or network card. If you do not need to do anything special with your computer, these may be sufficient.
If my experience, the built-in sound and network, if they exist, are sufficient. Most motherboards come with decent sound and network capabilities, and you are unlikely to notice any improvement buying a separate sound or network card.
Where you will notice a difference is in a graphics card. If you want to ever play games, or perform any task on the computer that requires three-dimensional graphics, I strongly recommend buying a graphics card. Almost all built-in graphics cards are underpowered for serious use and most do not have hardware support for 3-D rendering at all. This means many 3-D applications will not run at all, and those that do will cause a large drain on your other computer resources. Even if you do not expect to ever use the computer for anything graphically intensive, I would recommend ignoring any built-in graphics and at least get a low-end graphics card. I will talk about graphics cards in more detail later.
Processor (CPU)
 |
| My processor from the front. The discoloration is from the heat transfer goop in between the heatsink and the processor. |
The processor is the component always mentioned when referring to number of cores, or computer speed, like 2 Gigahertz (GHz). There are all sorts of numbers being thrown around that make choosing a processor quite challenging, so for the beginner I would try to simplify the choice.
If building a gaming computer, look at getting the processor maybe one or two levels below the absolute top-of-the-line. These usually provide about 90% of the speed you would get with the most expensive model at about half to one-third the cost. Current top-of-the-line processors go for over $1000, while the line just below is just over $300. Unless you absolutely want the fastest, most awesome processor available, don't waste your money.
If you don't need that much processing power, you can usually go with a cheaper model. I don't want to get specific because this changes all the time, but there is always a processor type offered for the lower-end market. I would be cautious buying on the far low end of the market, however, because the cost savings is generally not very significant, but the performance hit almost always will be. The best bang for your buck is usually in the mid to upper-middle ranges.
Lower-end processors are also many times a different socket style than the performance models. If you choose a processor with a different socket type, you will have to choose a different motherboard.
Like I keep saying, make sure the processor you want is compatible with the motherboard you want. The connector type changes frequently, so even last generation's Intel processor may not connect to a motherboard designed for this generation's processor.
If building a gaming computer, look at getting the processor maybe one or two levels below the absolute top-of-the-line. These usually provide about 90% of the speed you would get with the most expensive model at about half to one-third the cost. Current top-of-the-line processors go for over $1000, while the line just below is just over $300. Unless you absolutely want the fastest, most awesome processor available, don't waste your money.
If you don't need that much processing power, you can usually go with a cheaper model. I don't want to get specific because this changes all the time, but there is always a processor type offered for the lower-end market. I would be cautious buying on the far low end of the market, however, because the cost savings is generally not very significant, but the performance hit almost always will be. The best bang for your buck is usually in the mid to upper-middle ranges.
Like I keep saying, make sure the processor you want is compatible with the motherboard you want. The connector type changes frequently, so even last generation's Intel processor may not connect to a motherboard designed for this generation's processor.
Heatsink
Depending on the processor you buy, it may or may not come with a heatsink. This is vitally important to your processor. The heatsink is designed to remove the heat generated from the processor and put it into the air. In its simplest form it is just a hunk of metal, shaped to maximize heat transfer, usually with a fan attached. There are much more complicated ones designed to transfer heat more efficiently, but they all do the same thing.
Whatever you do DO NOT try to run your computer without the heatsink attached to the processor. Doing so will cause the processor to overheat almost instantly. (seriously, it will fail before the computer fans have a chance to get to full speed. Trust me, I have done it) This may break your processor, setting you back a few hundred bucks.
If your processor did not come with a heatsink, or you want to get a fancier one than the stock heatsink supplied, be sure it is designed for the processor you have. Firstly, different processors generate different amounts of heat, and a heatsink that is undersized will ultimately lead to an early death of your processor. Secondly, the motherboard contains attachment points for the heatsink in order to mount it. An incompatible heatsink will likely not attach, and if it does may crush your processor.
As always, consult the documentation for your heatsink and motherboard for installation instructions.
 |
| This motherboard supports four memory sticks. (yellow and red slots) |
Memory (RAM)
Choosing memory is really down to determining the amount you need. Once you have determined the memory type your motherboard uses and the maximum capacity stick it supports, figure out how much you want. Memory is generally one of the cheaper components to a computer, so if you get a little more than you need, it is no big deal. If you get too little, however, you may suffer a serious performance hit.
Any motherboard you buy will come with at least two memory slots, and usually comes with three or more. There is no reason you need to use all the memory slots, and I would actually recommend going with fewer larger capacity sticks rather than more smaller sticks. This provides you with the flexibility to purchase more memory sticks later if you ever need to upgrade.
Graphics (Video) Card
 |
| My graphics card. |
If it turns out you do need a graphics card, the same advice as I gave for processors applies. It is generally not worth the money to buy a top-of-the-line card when a card one step down will provide almost the same power for a fraction of the cost.
 |
| Notice how it takes up two expansion bays due to the heatsink and fan. |
Hard Drives / Disk Drives
There are a few options when it comes to hard drives, but the most important is the size. Be sure you get enough capacity to hold all your videos, music, games, and other miscellaneous files. With the growing prominence of the cloud, this may become less of a concern, but hard drive space is generally very cheap and getting cheaper. It is always easier to get a hard drive that is way too big than one that you will have to upgrade later.
Disk drives will probably hang around for a while longer still, so pick one that will meet your needs. You can generally just grab a cheap one off the shelf and you will be set. Even if you really don't see a need for one, It usually can't hurt to have it just in case.
Cooling Systems
 |
| My rear case fan. Ignore the strange mounting screws. This used to be a processor heatsink fan and this was all I could find around my house that fit. |
There are a couple options when it comes to cooling systems, but for simplicity's sake I am only going to talk about air-cooling, i.e. fans. I already talked about the importance of the processor heatsink and fan, but you need to have a way for all that heat to leave the computer entirely. If the case you bought comes with some case fans, you may not need to worry about it, but it is a good idea to know what is required just in case you need to get more.
The design of a computer tower is to take in cool air from the bottom front of the case, and expel hot air out the top back of the case. Computers are set up this way so that they work with hot air's natural desire to rise, and also so they don't blow hot air right at you. If you are designing a desktop computer (lies flat rather than stands up), then just be sure to take in air from the front and expel air out the back.
I will always recommend getting at least one fan for the front of the case, and one fan for the back. Any fans attached to the heatsink, power supply, graphics card, or otherwise do not count. I am referring to case fans, meaning they attach to the case. Multiple fans on the front and back are preferable so if one fails your computer doesn't overheat.
My preference is to get fans with built-in temperature probes. They cost a couple bucks more, but they vary their speed based on the heat of the computer, meaning they are quieter when idle, and speed up to help keep everything cool when needed. Ultimately the decision is up to you, but realize that while fans may be not very expensive, they are protecting expensive parts. This is not an area I would skimp on.
And again, the case is designed to support certain size fans, so be sure to get fans that will fit in your case.
Operating System
This is up to you. Windows has been by far the most popular choice over the past twenty plus years, but there are others, including Linux. Consult the provided documentation for details on how to install the operating system once the computer is together.
Installation
I am not going to go into too much detail on installation since the specifics change constantly. I have, however, provided some basic steps and guidelines to follow when installing. As always, consult any and all documentation provided before starting. It will go into more detail than I can.
- You should always ground yourself when handling computer components as any static discharge can break sensitive computer equipment. Grounding wristbands are sold at most computer stores for a few bucks.
- Make sure the motherboard is mounted properly to the case. If they are the same form factor this shouldn't be difficult, but watch out for the metal parts of the case touching the electrical components of the motherboard. Properly installed, the only contact the motherboard should have with the case will be the raised contact points.
- If not included with the case, mount the power supply. The motherboard documentation will specify where this is, but it almost always the rear top of the tower. Depending on design, it may be easier to swap steps 2 and 3.
- Install all case fans. Ensure front case fans blow into the case, and rear rear fans blow
out of the case. Power connectors for the fans should be located in the general vicinity of the fans on the motherboard. The motherboard documentation should list the locations. Be sure to leave the CPU fan connector open for when you install the heatsink. If there are more fans than connectors, you can purchase an adapter that connects it directly to the power supply.
Fan connector on motherboard. Nicer
motherboards label their components well,
like this. I recommend getting a better
model just for this.
- Ensure the processor is lined up properly with the socket, and any lock attached to the motherboard is disengaged. There is often a small handle on the outside of the processor connection point that pulls up to allow for processor installation, and locks down once all the pins are seated. Be VERY careful when seating the processor, as a bent or broken pin can mean the end of the processor.
- Follow all instructions when installing the heatsink. Most heatsinks will come with ither a silver or white gel that you apply to the main chip on the processor before attaching the heatsink. If your processor or heatsink did not come with any, you must have it. It fills in the microscopic gaps between the heatsink and the processor and allows even heat transfer. Without it the heatsink is more or less useless. Apply a very small amount onto the processor, and smooth with a razor blade or something similar. The gel should just barely cover the processor. Be sure to only get the gel on the point that the processor contacts the heatsink. Following the instructions, attach the heatsink to the motherboard. If it is very difficult to attach, stop and evaluate. The heatsink should fit on snug, but not overly tight as it can crush the processor if you push too hard.
- Install the memory into the available slots. There is generally a clip on either end of the slot that pushes out to allow the stick to be installed, then locks the memory stick in when you press the stick into the slot. Also be cognizant of any seating notch on the chip. This should correspond to a similar spot on the slot to ensure you don't install the chip backwards. Chips should be installed largest capacity first then sequentially smaller chips. Consult your motherboard documentation for the order of the slots.
- Next, install the graphics card (if applicable) into the appropriate expansion slot. The standard motherboard set up is fastest ports higher up, slower ones lower. On the case, be sure that any port covers blocking the needed expansion ports are removed. Card should seat into the slot fairly easily, and then attach by some means to the case.
- Install any other expansion cards in the same manner as the graphics card.
- Install the hard drive and any disk drives into their designated locations. The case should have a spot to screw in a hard drive and at least a couple disk drives.
- Attach hard drive and disk drive with the included data cable(s). The motherboard should have come with at least one or more data cables that attach to the motherboard and both drives. If not, you may have to buy one.
- Attach all power connectors. There should be one (or more) for the motherboard, one for the hard drive, one for the disk drive, and there might be one for the graphics card.
- Connect the front-panel buttons on the case to the motherboard. There should be a set of thin cables running from the front of the case that connect to the motherboard to allow the use of the power, reset, and any other front buttons. This can be a little tricky, but the motherboard documentation should provide a diagram of the location and orientation of these connectors. Be patient.
- Hook up your peripherals, such as your mouse, keyboard, speakers, and monitor. If you installed a graphics card or a sound card, be sure to connect the monitor and speakers to the expansion cards, not the motherboard.
- There may be parts left to install that I did not mention such as front-panel USB ports. They are too numerous and various to discuss, so consult your documentation and the internet for help installing these.
- You are done! Connect the power cable to the computer and the wall and press the power button. If nothing happens, ensure the cable is seated fully, any power switch on the power supply is on, the power cable to the motherboard is fully seated, and the connecting wire for the power button is connected to the correct spot. If the computer turns on but immediately makes some sort of series of beeps and the monitor does not display anything, consult the motherboard documentation for what that particular beep code means. You may have to look them up on the company's website.
- And of course one more step, the operating system. As soon as the computer turns on, put the installation disk in the disk drive. The computer should automatically recognize the disk and step you through the installation process. If not, consult your documentation and the internet.
 |
| Processor socket with processor removed and locking arm up. The plastic around the socket is the heatsink mount. The motherboard may come with this installed, or not. Certain heatsinks may require their ownto be installed. |
 |
| Heatsink on top of processor, but not mounted. The black arm swings over to lock in the heatsink. |
 |
| Memory inserted into slot but not locked in... |
 |
| ...and now locked in by pressing down on the stick. |
 |
| Rear of computer with graphics card installed. |
 |
| Motherboard power port (top) unplugged... |
 |
| ...and plugged in. |
 |
| Some motherboards like this one, have more than one power port. Be sure to connect all required power ports. |
 |
| The connection for the front panel buttons is right below the SATA ports on this motherboard. It looks messy, but this board is well labeled. |
Resources
Again, without going into specifics, search on the internet for computer parts from a reputable company. If you can find one, I recommend going to an actual computer store so you can get a feel for what these parts look like in person. This will also provide you the opportunity to ask someone any questions you might have.
No comments:
Post a Comment